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Archive for January, 2010

By Earnest Cook
Photos by Cameron Adams
3116 Main St.
Kent Narrows, Grasonville, MD 21638
(410) 827-8807
Restaurant Details

When to Enjoy: Daily 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Expect to Pay: Appetizers: $3-15
Entrées: $17-39
Desserts: $4-6

When you think of food on the Eastern Shore of Maryland many things come to mind: crab cakes, soft crabs, salty oysters, and the vast array of fish from the Chesapeake Bay. Fisherman’s Inn has been a landmark destination on the Shore for enjoying these delicacies for some time now. The eatery has been around since 1930 when Captain Alex Thomas and his wife, Mae, opened a local seafood restaurant with seating for 30, along with a grocery store.

The couple’s daughter, Betty, and son-in-law, Oscar “Sonny” Schulz, built a new, larger restaurant in 1971, which burned down on December 23, 1980. The Schulzes rebuilt and reopened the restaurant in July 1981.

As my wife Amanda and I entered Fisherman’s Inn, we were immediately amazed at the sheer size of the establishment. Two large dining areas, with ample space to hold private events, were bustling with smiling patrons and friendly, attentive staff members. A cozy bar area just off to the right was built to resemble a boat, the Maverick, operated by Sonny Schulz for many years. The decor consisted of locally crafted waterfowl decoys, oyster tins, model ships, and Mrs. Schulz’s famous antique oyster plate collection. More than 300 antique oyster plates from as far back as the 1700s line the walls. An LGB G-gauge model train runs quietly on a track suspended from the ceiling, great for entertaining children awaiting their meals.

We were seated in a comfortable spacious booth with a large window that boasts interesting views of a tranquil pond and a garden landscape with blooming flowers. We could see the shimmering Chesapeake Bay in the distance and the Crab Deck, Fisherman’s Inn’s sister restaurant, to our left.

The menu that Executive Chef Paul Wernsdorfer has compiled is vast and varied, with all of the traditional Eastern Shore favorites. I really appreciated the creative, seasonal specials added to the menu. All entrées come with two sides. Casual fare also is offered if you are not in the mood for a large meal. Wines are reasonably priced and offered by the glass, half bottle, and full bottle. Amanda thought the cocktail special sounded too good to pass up, and so indulged in the mango mojito ($6.99). The crisp and refreshing concoction consisted of mango puree, lime juice, mint, and rum.

Our server, Christina, brought steaming yeast rolls as she arrived at our table. Amanda chose the crab and asparagus bisque appetizer special ($5.99), which was creamy and full of asparagus flavor. I enjoyed a perfectly cooked calamari appetizer ($8.99), paired with a fresh basil dipping sauce.

For her main course, Amanda chose the New England lobster pot ($33.99). The live Maine lobsters are on display in a large tank for everyone to see. This seafood delight included an impeccably steamed ensemble of peeled shrimp, fresh little neck clams, and a succulent one-pound lobster. Although a little difficult to eat, the lobster was well worth the effort.

I decided upon a more traditional Eastern Shore favorite: fried flounder ($16.99). This entrée consisted of two large, breaded fillets that more than filled the plate as well as my appetite. The fish was nicely cooked but a bit bland. Luckily, I still had some of the basil sauce from my calamari dish to enjoy with my crispy flounder, French fries, and local asparagus.

Christina suggested the frozen mud pie ($5.99) for dessert. We decided to share a piece because of the substantial portions in the previous courses. The delicious ice cream, cookie, and whipped-cream creation that arrived was more than ample for the two of us. A smooth, freshly ground espresso ($2.99) concluded this most pleasant Fisherman’s Inn experience.

The history, decor, staff, and cuisine all make this seafood restaurant a huge success. Fisherman’s Inn is a timeless establishment that offers both natives and tourists an authentic Eastern Shore experience.

Earnest Cook is currently a private chef and local culinary instructor. He has worked with some of the most well-known chefs in Washington D.C. and Maryland. His wife, Amanda Showell Cook, is a veteran of the restaurant industry, having worked and managed all aspects of the dining room.

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